Hardly one would find such courageous people from different walks of life coming together on a morning made memorable by The Telegraph Education Foundation. One common thing that bound them together is love for education in a country where still more than 30% are illiterate.
The last Saturday of August every year since the past decade has seen an august gathering of students from schools across Bengal to attend the The Telegraph School Awards for Excellence. I am not going to report on the day’s events that unfolded quite dramatically but left many of us in tears. As stories have already appeared (http://www.telegraphindia.com/1070826/asp/frontpage/story_8238977.asp, http://www.telegraphindia.com/1070826/asp/bengal/story_8238675.asp, http://anandabazar.in/26raj1.htm), I would share an experience that is unique in its own, for me too.
If you have clicked on any one of the links above, you would find Swapan Adhikary — a name quite common in Bengali, but not a man common in Bengal.
Since the announcement of the great work Swapan babu has been doing for the past 14 years or so at the Science City auditorium, the audience moved to what extent was not known to me. Within an hour after Swapan babu was given a cheque and a shawl in recognising his contribution to the villages in and around his home 16km from Balurghat, a sleepy north Bengal town, two girls in school uniform came to me with a modest request. How to meet him and donate whatever they had in their purse? The little angels felt what many of us could not even think of. They gave away their savings made from either tiffin allowance or bus/car fare to Swapan babu after I took them over to the rickshaw-puller wearing a trouser, vest and a cotton bathroom towel on his left shoulder — a dress the 70 years old has been sporting since time immemorial.
Touched, the angels slowly came out of the auditorium that also recognised at least hundred others for such acts of courage. On way home, the girls told me: "Thank you", perhaps for facilitating the meeting of tender hearts with that of an old, but not frail, mind. I told them: "You don’t know what you’ve done, thank YOU."
The short conversation of less than 10 seconds ended with a smile but not before their wiping tears.
Sunday 26 August 2007
Saturday 7 July 2007
Mahi magic on & off field
This is for Dhoni only!!
http://www.telegraphindia.com/1070707/asp/jharkhand/story_8026960.asp
As the cricketer celebrates his 26th birthday, Supratim Pal marvels at the brand name Dhoni that remained strong as ever no matter what the team went through
Only a few could grab the attention he got in the past two and half years since his ODI debut in December 2004. Mahendra Singh Dhoni, who celebrates his 26th birthday tomorrow, is no more a cricketer; he is a brand himself. His continuous success on the field has supported MSD to build an off-the-field aura around him.
He is a born champion. While on the greens he has to fight to edge out Dinesh Karthik — also a wicketkeeper — these days, in the brand war he is pitted against stronger competitors like senior-most teammate Sachin Tendulkar or tennis queen (at least in the subcontinent!) Sania Mirza.
Interestingly, in the last financial year, Brand Dhoni got more commercial ad minutes on the TV than either Sachin or Sania.
His impeccable hairdo and fascination for motorbikes have put Mahi on an acclaimed pedestal which neither Sachin nor any other sportsperson can achieve at present.
Whatever commercials he had done these months were all about endorsing the Dhoni style statement — be it 7UP or Sonata, Brylcreem or Reebok. Last year, when he was voted MTV Youth Icon, nobody was surprised because Dhoni signifies what youth is: stylish, suave and sensational.
Even in the virtual world, his fans across the world put together a website: www.dhonixpress.com . The website says it all about Dhoni — the man, the player, the hero. A message board dedicated for discussion on the superstar is also on the website created (November 2005) even before Dhoni was to take the Test field donning the Team India blue!
The Dhoni Factor — a deadly blow to fast bowlers like Shoaib Akhtar — is hugely popular among members of social networking website www.orkut.com . Orkut , incidentally a contender for this year's MTV Youth Icon, provides thousands of youngsters to share the same feeling: Dhoni — the destroyer of opponent's bowling arsenal, the saving grace of the Tricolour.
Over 50 communities are there in praise for Dhoni — ranging from "Dhoni" to "I love you Dhoni". And about 13 communities on Orkut do not find Dhoni that much gracious and gave birth to "I hate Dhoni" pages.
Bloggers on the web are also not far behind in appreciating the superb batting hand and safe gloves he possesses. But there are flaks, too.
"I know he is a great one-day player but I am sorry to say that Dhoni is a poor Test player," writes one Sudip Kafle, in one of his "special blogs" on Mahi.
But the Team India ODI vice-captain need not worry when he cuts the birthday cake in Hove this weekend, as both his one-day average (46.97) and strike rate (98.75) are above par — only few of his generation can match that.
http://www.telegraphindia.com/1070707/asp/jharkhand/story_8026960.asp
As the cricketer celebrates his 26th birthday, Supratim Pal marvels at the brand name Dhoni that remained strong as ever no matter what the team went through
Only a few could grab the attention he got in the past two and half years since his ODI debut in December 2004. Mahendra Singh Dhoni, who celebrates his 26th birthday tomorrow, is no more a cricketer; he is a brand himself. His continuous success on the field has supported MSD to build an off-the-field aura around him.
He is a born champion. While on the greens he has to fight to edge out Dinesh Karthik — also a wicketkeeper — these days, in the brand war he is pitted against stronger competitors like senior-most teammate Sachin Tendulkar or tennis queen (at least in the subcontinent!) Sania Mirza.
Interestingly, in the last financial year, Brand Dhoni got more commercial ad minutes on the TV than either Sachin or Sania.
His impeccable hairdo and fascination for motorbikes have put Mahi on an acclaimed pedestal which neither Sachin nor any other sportsperson can achieve at present.
Whatever commercials he had done these months were all about endorsing the Dhoni style statement — be it 7UP or Sonata, Brylcreem or Reebok. Last year, when he was voted MTV Youth Icon, nobody was surprised because Dhoni signifies what youth is: stylish, suave and sensational.
Even in the virtual world, his fans across the world put together a website: www.dhonixpress.com . The website says it all about Dhoni — the man, the player, the hero. A message board dedicated for discussion on the superstar is also on the website created (November 2005) even before Dhoni was to take the Test field donning the Team India blue!
The Dhoni Factor — a deadly blow to fast bowlers like Shoaib Akhtar — is hugely popular among members of social networking website www.orkut.com . Orkut , incidentally a contender for this year's MTV Youth Icon, provides thousands of youngsters to share the same feeling: Dhoni — the destroyer of opponent's bowling arsenal, the saving grace of the Tricolour.
Over 50 communities are there in praise for Dhoni — ranging from "Dhoni" to "I love you Dhoni". And about 13 communities on Orkut do not find Dhoni that much gracious and gave birth to "I hate Dhoni" pages.
Bloggers on the web are also not far behind in appreciating the superb batting hand and safe gloves he possesses. But there are flaks, too.
"I know he is a great one-day player but I am sorry to say that Dhoni is a poor Test player," writes one Sudip Kafle, in one of his "special blogs" on Mahi.
But the Team India ODI vice-captain need not worry when he cuts the birthday cake in Hove this weekend, as both his one-day average (46.97) and strike rate (98.75) are above par — only few of his generation can match that.
Friday 6 July 2007
Enjoy rains on virgin beach
My another traveblog, appeared in The Telegraph (www.telegraph.in) on July 5, 2007.
This monsoon, you can spend a day or two at Gopalpur-on-Sea, one of the
secluded tourist destinations in Orissa, says Supratim Pal
If you want to go on a shopping spree like you can do on any popular beach destination, then Gopalpur is not your cup of tea. If you want to take a stroll on the beach followed by a freshening bath in the sea, then Gopalpur will be a bit risky.
If you want to go on a tour when you can enjoy the serenity of a place far from the madding crowd, then Gopalpur can be the ideal monsoon destination for you.
For, Gopalpur is such a secluded place — especially during the rains — on the Orissa coast, that you will sometimes forget if that can hardly be called a tourist hotspot.
But it is one of the top tourism sites in the neighbouring state with a fuming sea always provoking you to get drenched at your own peril. Like it did to us a few days ago.
Though we had known that even taking a dip was risky, as told by nulias (fishermen) there, we ventured out into the sea against an overcast sky accompanied by a steady drizzling for hours. The nulias, most of them Telugus, were quite keen to help us out in the suddenly-found adventure on the beach — a vast stretch of it is still virgin!
Walking back to our hotel was not at all a problem since it was located on the beach itself! A few steps have been created on the backside of Hotel Kalinga, like that of Sea Pearl, the only other hotel on the beach, to help enthusiasts take a plunge in the deep blue sea.
This part of the Bay of Bengal is so blue, that it can only be compared to Rushikonda beach on the outskirts of Visakhapatnam. And the best time to enjoy the beauty of Gopalpur is obviously this monsoon before you wait for another rains!
Local flavour
Apart from the rough sea, the other attraction — my all-time favourite — of Gopalpur-on-Sea, its ornamental name, is the lighthouse built in 1871 for assisting coastal shipping between Rangoon and Coromandal coast ports.
The lighthouse is still active and besides assisting fishing trawlers regularly it also allows visitors like us to take a bird’s-eye view of the sea and also of the town. Sadly, you cannot click any shots from high above, as there is a ban on taking pictures from one of the highest structures on the coast.
Gopalpur, which used to be a harbour a few decades back, is being developed into a modern port with all necessary infrastructure — the old jetty being reformed, the road leading to the port widened, among others.
If you want to visit the port, and the old jetty, necessary permission can be obtained from the Gopalpur Ports Authority.
Footfalls on the beaches around Gopalpur are quite few that only leaves them virgin. A day’s trip to Dhabaleshwar would greet you with serenity amid rows of casurina trees. Dhabaleshwar, about 20km from Gopalpur, is locally famous for its temple, although not quite old but its settting on the beach enthralls every moment of your stay there.
The "pink" beach — the colour of sand is a bit reddish there — in Dhabaleshwar is itself an attraction besides the puja you can offer to the deity there.
Visiting Chilika, the largest brackish water lagoon in India, is a must if you plan to holiday in Gopalpur. Situated around 40km from the beach town, this 1165sqkm (906sqkm during summer) Ramsar site, is home to thousands of species of flora and fauna.
We took a boat ride from Rambha, easily accessible from Gopalpur, to move around the vast water body, which in winter, would be nesting place of migratory birds flocking from the north.
Although monsoon is certainly not the right time for birdwatching, but resident birds at Chilika — like cormorant, kites, gulls and also green bee-eaters —can be spotted easily. A number of islands dot the lagoon where around 52 rivers and rivulets drain water. You can visit Becon island (3km from OTDC bungalow in Rambha) or Breakfast island, or for that matter Honeymoon island! If you think these are fictitious names, blame it on the British who used these rather unusual, but symbolic, names to define the islands.
But if you really want to enjoy the Chilika, you should stay at the OTDC Panthanivas at Rambha and venture early in the morning on a countryboat to watch birds and fishermen busy with their first catch of the day.
Travel tips
Nearest railhead: Berhampur, 16km
Nearest airport: Bhubaneswar, 180km
Oberoi Palm Beach: (0680) 242021/23
OTDC Panthanivas: (0680) 2243931
Hotel Kalinga: (0680) 2242067
Points to ponder
Dangerous is the sea to take a bath at Gopalpur. If at all you cannot resist yourself, take help of a nulia. They know the depth of the sea, as well as the weather on a particular day. On the top of the lighthouse one should not try to be too adventurous, as accidents, though very few, are also reported there.
The entry fee to the lighthouse is Rs 5 only and there is no fee to take your analog/digital/movie cameras, as those are totally banned on its premises!
However, the officials there did not seem too strict about using a cellphone with a video camera!At Chilika, it is better to keep a binocular, which you can use atop the lighthouse too, to watch birds and hillocks in and around the lagoon. These taken care of, just relax and enjoy your days off from work. Take no calls and forget the internet, in case you foolishly brought the laptop along. In short, forget the world and give yourself up to the beauty around.
This monsoon, you can spend a day or two at Gopalpur-on-Sea, one of the
secluded tourist destinations in Orissa, says Supratim Pal
If you want to go on a shopping spree like you can do on any popular beach destination, then Gopalpur is not your cup of tea. If you want to take a stroll on the beach followed by a freshening bath in the sea, then Gopalpur will be a bit risky.
If you want to go on a tour when you can enjoy the serenity of a place far from the madding crowd, then Gopalpur can be the ideal monsoon destination for you.
For, Gopalpur is such a secluded place — especially during the rains — on the Orissa coast, that you will sometimes forget if that can hardly be called a tourist hotspot.
But it is one of the top tourism sites in the neighbouring state with a fuming sea always provoking you to get drenched at your own peril. Like it did to us a few days ago.
Though we had known that even taking a dip was risky, as told by nulias (fishermen) there, we ventured out into the sea against an overcast sky accompanied by a steady drizzling for hours. The nulias, most of them Telugus, were quite keen to help us out in the suddenly-found adventure on the beach — a vast stretch of it is still virgin!
Walking back to our hotel was not at all a problem since it was located on the beach itself! A few steps have been created on the backside of Hotel Kalinga, like that of Sea Pearl, the only other hotel on the beach, to help enthusiasts take a plunge in the deep blue sea.
This part of the Bay of Bengal is so blue, that it can only be compared to Rushikonda beach on the outskirts of Visakhapatnam. And the best time to enjoy the beauty of Gopalpur is obviously this monsoon before you wait for another rains!
Local flavour
Apart from the rough sea, the other attraction — my all-time favourite — of Gopalpur-on-Sea, its ornamental name, is the lighthouse built in 1871 for assisting coastal shipping between Rangoon and Coromandal coast ports.
The lighthouse is still active and besides assisting fishing trawlers regularly it also allows visitors like us to take a bird’s-eye view of the sea and also of the town. Sadly, you cannot click any shots from high above, as there is a ban on taking pictures from one of the highest structures on the coast.
Gopalpur, which used to be a harbour a few decades back, is being developed into a modern port with all necessary infrastructure — the old jetty being reformed, the road leading to the port widened, among others.
If you want to visit the port, and the old jetty, necessary permission can be obtained from the Gopalpur Ports Authority.
Footfalls on the beaches around Gopalpur are quite few that only leaves them virgin. A day’s trip to Dhabaleshwar would greet you with serenity amid rows of casurina trees. Dhabaleshwar, about 20km from Gopalpur, is locally famous for its temple, although not quite old but its settting on the beach enthralls every moment of your stay there.
The "pink" beach — the colour of sand is a bit reddish there — in Dhabaleshwar is itself an attraction besides the puja you can offer to the deity there.
Visiting Chilika, the largest brackish water lagoon in India, is a must if you plan to holiday in Gopalpur. Situated around 40km from the beach town, this 1165sqkm (906sqkm during summer) Ramsar site, is home to thousands of species of flora and fauna.
We took a boat ride from Rambha, easily accessible from Gopalpur, to move around the vast water body, which in winter, would be nesting place of migratory birds flocking from the north.
Although monsoon is certainly not the right time for birdwatching, but resident birds at Chilika — like cormorant, kites, gulls and also green bee-eaters —can be spotted easily. A number of islands dot the lagoon where around 52 rivers and rivulets drain water. You can visit Becon island (3km from OTDC bungalow in Rambha) or Breakfast island, or for that matter Honeymoon island! If you think these are fictitious names, blame it on the British who used these rather unusual, but symbolic, names to define the islands.
But if you really want to enjoy the Chilika, you should stay at the OTDC Panthanivas at Rambha and venture early in the morning on a countryboat to watch birds and fishermen busy with their first catch of the day.
Travel tips
Nearest railhead: Berhampur, 16km
Nearest airport: Bhubaneswar, 180km
Oberoi Palm Beach: (0680) 242021/23
OTDC Panthanivas: (0680) 2243931
Hotel Kalinga: (0680) 2242067
Points to ponder
Dangerous is the sea to take a bath at Gopalpur. If at all you cannot resist yourself, take help of a nulia. They know the depth of the sea, as well as the weather on a particular day. On the top of the lighthouse one should not try to be too adventurous, as accidents, though very few, are also reported there.
The entry fee to the lighthouse is Rs 5 only and there is no fee to take your analog/digital/movie cameras, as those are totally banned on its premises!
However, the officials there did not seem too strict about using a cellphone with a video camera!At Chilika, it is better to keep a binocular, which you can use atop the lighthouse too, to watch birds and hillocks in and around the lagoon. These taken care of, just relax and enjoy your days off from work. Take no calls and forget the internet, in case you foolishly brought the laptop along. In short, forget the world and give yourself up to the beauty around.
Top of the world in kingdom of cloud
I wrote my traveblog in The Telegraph. The story is pasted below :))
You can visit the page also: http://www.telegraphindia.com/1070514/asp/jamshedpur/story_7773222.asp
Sandakphu lies amid rhododendron, oak, magnolia that can mesmerise you even on a day when weather may not permit for breathtaking view of the Himalayas, says Supratim Pal
Travel Talk
The Kanchenjungha from Tonglu
At 3,636m (11,992ft), you can only expect a whole range of snow-capped peaks from the Everest on your left to Pandim on the right. That’s exactly what should have happened when we reached Sandakphu, the highest peak of Bengal, after an arduous 32-km trek in a little less than three days.
But luck was not on our side to take a look at the Three Sisters — three peaks between the Everest and the Kanchenjungha — on that foggy April morning unlike in Tonglu (3,070m), the third highest in the Singalila range of the eastern Himalayas, where a spectacular sunrise kept was awake since 4.30 in the morning. Scaling Tonglu was not easier either.
We took a conventional trekking route from Maneybhanjang (2,134m) with packing bare essentials in our rucksacks on a bright sunny morning.
The first 2.5 km, quite steep, was a test of everything — ability, agility and also of lungs and nerve, head and heart. Altitude sickness can start at this point before you reach Chitrey, the nearest village on the Indo-Nepal border, where a mug of coffee and steaming noodles soup are must to refresh the tiring nerves.
Once passed the first few hour’s ordeal, nothing seemed problematic — nor even the sheer breathlessness — rather we enjoyed the full bloom of rhododendron, magnolia and camellia dotting the lush green of the hills with red and white. The best season to take a trek to Sandakphu is certainly during October-November, but we chose this time of the year just to enjoy nature at its best.
Though a sudden hailstorm in the afternoon made us uncomfortable on our way from Meghma (2,900m) to Tonglu — which may not happen in the autumn — but walking amid pricking hails on 10,000ft with wind speed around 80kmph is a kind of experience which can hardly be described in words.
Trudging a spiralling steep road — also used by Land Rovers to ferry fellow tourists, not trekkers, to Sandakphu — for hours would certainly drain us had there not been thumba — a local Nepali country liquor made of fermented millet. Besides thumba, certainly the drink to keep us warm at 2°C, tshang (Nepali hadiya) was available aplenty, as a bottle of brandy at Sandakphu may land you up on the other side of Rs 1,000!
For avid birdwatchers, the dense forest from Tumbling (2,900m) to Gairibas (2,621m) is the place to look for in the Himalayan foothills. From Yellow-billed blue Magpie to different species of Kingfisher, Verditer Flycatcher to Eurasian Blackbird — birds of bright plumage and various shapes can be spotted in abundance in this avian paradise.
On our way back from Sandakphu, the 14-km continuous downhill trek to Gurdum was another adventure since the route we took was not a traditional one but amid greens with oak, dhupi, pine and bamboo bushes of different colour blocking the 2-ft-wide mud road every now and then. Leopards and Himalayan red pandas are common sighting in this forest, a part of the Singalila National Park, though we could not spot either of these since a thick fog engulfed the hills till 11 in the morning.
The trek virtually ends at Gurdum but you have to walk another 4 km to Srikhola to get a four-wheeler, which would drop you at Siliguri, the nearest railhead. Srikhola, as the name suggests, is on the bank of a river (khola, in Nepali, means river) in the foothills of the Himalayas where we found momos for the first time in four days.
Since preparing momos is quite a time-consuming matter, villagers on our trekking route could not offer it quickly but we had a delicious dish of steamed frog at Lamay Dura on our way to Tonglu on the first day. At the end of the 52-km trekking, we found one thing missing from our itinerary: scaling Phalut (3,600m), which would take another two days to cover from Sandakphu. We are waiting to take a trip on that route for an amazing view of the Everest, which we missed this time!
Trekking route
Day one: Maneybhanjang — Chitrey (breakfast) — Lamay Dura (lunch) — Meghma (snacks) — Tonglu/Tumbling
Day two:
Tonglu/Tumbling — Gairibas (lunch) — Kalapokhari
Day three:
Kalapokhari — Bhikheybhanjang (lunch) — Sandakphu
Day four:
Sandakphu — Gurdum (lunch) — Srikhola
Day five:
Srikhola — Dhotrey — Maneybhanjang — Siliguri
Where to stay
At Maneybhanjang:
Hotel Exotica (9733378192);
Tumbling:
Siddhartha Lodge (9733080318) Tonglu, Gairibas and Sandakphu: DGHC trekkers’ hut (0354-2257554)
Srikhola:
Goparma Hotel (9832087982)
Forest guide
Saja Motey
(9232522334/0354-2278569)
Jivan Chhetri
(9733044512/0354-2264387)
Railhead, airport
New Jalpaiguri (Siliguri):
95 km from Maneybhanjang
Bagdogra (Siliguri):
90 km from Maneybhanjang
How to go
Bagdogra and New Jalpaiguri are well connected with Delhi and Calcutta. Take an auto-rickshaw or a cycle-rickshaw to go to Tensing Norgay Bus Terminus (Siliguri); Hire a Mahindra Commander/Tata Spacio (Rs 800 to Maneybhanjang); Take a break at Mirik for a breathtaking view of the lake there. From Maneybhanjang you can start the trek or hire a Land Rover (Rs 4,000 only to drop at Sandakphu)
Points to remember
Entry fee to Singalila National Park:
Rs 25 (per person)
Fee for still/digital camera: Rs 25
For video/handycam: Rs 250
Guide’s fee: Rs 250 (per day, without food)
You can visit the page also: http://www.telegraphindia.com/1070514/asp/jamshedpur/story_7773222.asp
Sandakphu lies amid rhododendron, oak, magnolia that can mesmerise you even on a day when weather may not permit for breathtaking view of the Himalayas, says Supratim Pal
Travel Talk
The Kanchenjungha from Tonglu
At 3,636m (11,992ft), you can only expect a whole range of snow-capped peaks from the Everest on your left to Pandim on the right. That’s exactly what should have happened when we reached Sandakphu, the highest peak of Bengal, after an arduous 32-km trek in a little less than three days.
But luck was not on our side to take a look at the Three Sisters — three peaks between the Everest and the Kanchenjungha — on that foggy April morning unlike in Tonglu (3,070m), the third highest in the Singalila range of the eastern Himalayas, where a spectacular sunrise kept was awake since 4.30 in the morning. Scaling Tonglu was not easier either.
We took a conventional trekking route from Maneybhanjang (2,134m) with packing bare essentials in our rucksacks on a bright sunny morning.
The first 2.5 km, quite steep, was a test of everything — ability, agility and also of lungs and nerve, head and heart. Altitude sickness can start at this point before you reach Chitrey, the nearest village on the Indo-Nepal border, where a mug of coffee and steaming noodles soup are must to refresh the tiring nerves.
Once passed the first few hour’s ordeal, nothing seemed problematic — nor even the sheer breathlessness — rather we enjoyed the full bloom of rhododendron, magnolia and camellia dotting the lush green of the hills with red and white. The best season to take a trek to Sandakphu is certainly during October-November, but we chose this time of the year just to enjoy nature at its best.
Though a sudden hailstorm in the afternoon made us uncomfortable on our way from Meghma (2,900m) to Tonglu — which may not happen in the autumn — but walking amid pricking hails on 10,000ft with wind speed around 80kmph is a kind of experience which can hardly be described in words.
Trudging a spiralling steep road — also used by Land Rovers to ferry fellow tourists, not trekkers, to Sandakphu — for hours would certainly drain us had there not been thumba — a local Nepali country liquor made of fermented millet. Besides thumba, certainly the drink to keep us warm at 2°C, tshang (Nepali hadiya) was available aplenty, as a bottle of brandy at Sandakphu may land you up on the other side of Rs 1,000!
For avid birdwatchers, the dense forest from Tumbling (2,900m) to Gairibas (2,621m) is the place to look for in the Himalayan foothills. From Yellow-billed blue Magpie to different species of Kingfisher, Verditer Flycatcher to Eurasian Blackbird — birds of bright plumage and various shapes can be spotted in abundance in this avian paradise.
On our way back from Sandakphu, the 14-km continuous downhill trek to Gurdum was another adventure since the route we took was not a traditional one but amid greens with oak, dhupi, pine and bamboo bushes of different colour blocking the 2-ft-wide mud road every now and then. Leopards and Himalayan red pandas are common sighting in this forest, a part of the Singalila National Park, though we could not spot either of these since a thick fog engulfed the hills till 11 in the morning.
The trek virtually ends at Gurdum but you have to walk another 4 km to Srikhola to get a four-wheeler, which would drop you at Siliguri, the nearest railhead. Srikhola, as the name suggests, is on the bank of a river (khola, in Nepali, means river) in the foothills of the Himalayas where we found momos for the first time in four days.
Since preparing momos is quite a time-consuming matter, villagers on our trekking route could not offer it quickly but we had a delicious dish of steamed frog at Lamay Dura on our way to Tonglu on the first day. At the end of the 52-km trekking, we found one thing missing from our itinerary: scaling Phalut (3,600m), which would take another two days to cover from Sandakphu. We are waiting to take a trip on that route for an amazing view of the Everest, which we missed this time!
Trekking route
Day one: Maneybhanjang — Chitrey (breakfast) — Lamay Dura (lunch) — Meghma (snacks) — Tonglu/Tumbling
Day two:
Tonglu/Tumbling — Gairibas (lunch) — Kalapokhari
Day three:
Kalapokhari — Bhikheybhanjang (lunch) — Sandakphu
Day four:
Sandakphu — Gurdum (lunch) — Srikhola
Day five:
Srikhola — Dhotrey — Maneybhanjang — Siliguri
Where to stay
At Maneybhanjang:
Hotel Exotica (9733378192);
Tumbling:
Siddhartha Lodge (9733080318) Tonglu, Gairibas and Sandakphu: DGHC trekkers’ hut (0354-2257554)
Srikhola:
Goparma Hotel (9832087982)
Forest guide
Saja Motey
(9232522334/0354-2278569)
Jivan Chhetri
(9733044512/0354-2264387)
Railhead, airport
New Jalpaiguri (Siliguri):
95 km from Maneybhanjang
Bagdogra (Siliguri):
90 km from Maneybhanjang
How to go
Bagdogra and New Jalpaiguri are well connected with Delhi and Calcutta. Take an auto-rickshaw or a cycle-rickshaw to go to Tensing Norgay Bus Terminus (Siliguri); Hire a Mahindra Commander/Tata Spacio (Rs 800 to Maneybhanjang); Take a break at Mirik for a breathtaking view of the lake there. From Maneybhanjang you can start the trek or hire a Land Rover (Rs 4,000 only to drop at Sandakphu)
Points to remember
Entry fee to Singalila National Park:
Rs 25 (per person)
Fee for still/digital camera: Rs 25
For video/handycam: Rs 250
Guide’s fee: Rs 250 (per day, without food)
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